Rice and Curry, Kottu and Hoppers: A Guide to Sri Lankan Food

One of the best parts of a trip to Sri Lanka is the food. It can be confusing at first, though: what’s a hopper, why is there coconut in everything, and how spicy is “a little spicy”? Here’s our quick guide for hungry surfers.

Rice and curry

Sri Lanka’s everyday meal. Rice comes with several small curries around it, not one big dish. A typical plate might include:

• Dhal (parippu): creamy, mild red lentils cooked in coconut milk. A good place to start.
• A fish, chicken or meat curry. On the coast, it’s often fresh fish.
• Vegetable curries such as pumpkin, beans, beetroot or jackfruit.
• Mallung: finely chopped greens stir-fried with coconut.
• Pol sambol: fresh grated coconut with chilli, onion and lime. Sharp, bright and addictive.
• Papadum for crunch.

Mix a little of each curry into your rice as you go. Locals often eat with their right hand, but a spoon and fork are always fine.

Kottu

You’ll hear kottu before you see it: the rhythmic clanging of metal blades on a hot griddle. It’s chopped flatbread (roti) stir-fried with vegetables, egg, spices and usually chicken or beef. It’s filling, cheap and perfect after an evening surf.

Hoppers

Hoppers (appa) are bowl-shaped pancakes made from fermented rice flour and coconut milk, crispy at the edges and soft in the middle. An egg hopper has an egg cooked into the bottom. They’re usually eaten for breakfast or dinner with sambol and curry.

String hoppers are different: little nests of steamed rice noodles, often served with a mild coconut gravy called kiri hodi.

Devilled dishes

“Devilled” chicken, prawns, fish or pork is a sweet, spicy, slightly tangy stir-fry with peppers, onions and tomato. It’s a favourite with a cold drink in the evening, and great with fried or yellow rice.

Sweet things

Try watalappan, a spiced coconut and jaggery custard, and curd and treacle: buffalo curd with kitul palm syrup. Fresh tropical fruit is everywhere too: mango, papaya, pineapple and many kinds of banana.

How spicy is it?

It varies. If you prefer mild, just say “less spicy, please”. At our restaurant we’re always happy to adjust. A spoon of dhal or a sip of king coconut helps if you go too far.

Drinks

• King coconut (thambili) is the best rehydration after a surf.
• Ceylon tea, of course. Try it with milk and sugar the local way.
• Fresh juices made from whatever fruit is in season.

Come hungry and try something new every day.